Maybe the excitement started for you last Christmas, or on your birthday. It may be that you’ve been messing around with R/C cars for so long that you don’t remember the first time you pulled the top off of that first box full of plastic, nylon, and aluminum parts. Sooner or later you got that first car assembled and running, either by yourself or with the help of a friend. Sure, you made a few mistakes along the way, and I’m sure you replaced a part or two while you learned how to drive the thing. But like many others before you, the decision’s been made: you’ve had it with dodging cars on the street in front of your house, and you’re tired of yelling at the pesky German Shepherd who thinks your sedan is a new breed of cat. It’s been fun mixing it up with your buddies from time to time, but you want...more. You crave the satisfaction of a finely executed pass and the sweet thrill of threading cleanly through a morass of stranded vehicles on the back straight. You long for the crush of the first turn and the cheers of the spectators as your car –your car- comes from behind, inch by inch, to pull off a win in the last two turns. And if you want to experience those few, final, silent, heart-pumping moments before the starter sounds the tone, there’s only one way to get there: it’s time to go racing.

I’ve been assembling, maintaining, and generally messing around with radio controlled cars for well over a decade. Obviously I really enjoy the hobby, or I wouldn’t spend so much time and money on it. As much fun as I have late at night in The Secret Underground Laboratory working on my cars, or painting bodies on a sunny Saturday morning, there’s literally nothing that gets my blood racing like good old fashioned elbow-to-elbow competition. Carpet, asphalt, or dirt, gas or electric, 10th, 12th, or 1/8th scale, cars or trucks, if there’s an opportunity to run for the finish line against nine other maniacs while the clock ticks off the seconds until a winner is declared, I’m there. And since it takes other racers to make a race, I’m always willing to give a few pointers to the uninitiated.

This month, however, I’m concentrating on the brand new racers. When I began racing, I was lucky to stumble across a couple of guys who took me under their wing. Even more fortunate, they actually knew what they were doing! So, to put this article together, I went back to the racing notebook that’s been my companion since that fateful first day, and looked up some of the things that Tom and Larry told me to watch out for. They helped me out then, and I think their common sense can do the same for you this year as Hobby Works rolls out the 2000 season.

Tip number one: understand the basic equipment rules for the class in which you will run. In the case of Hobby Works’ parking lot races, there’s a class for just about every type of Tamiya radio-controlled car. Start by going to the racing information page on this web site, and print the rules for the 2000 series. They contain easy-to-follow guidelines about which modifications you can make to your car and what kind of motor you’re allowed to install. The schedule of dates and locations are there as well. That way, you’ll know which ones fit in your family’s schedule. The Directions page links to Mapquest to help you your way there. Make sure you know when setup and practice begins too, because you’ll want to get as much practice time as possible. Just remember that, unlike running out on the street, there are strict rules to follow during practice so that everyone can enjoy their day at the track.

Since the Hobby Works tracks don’t provide access to A/C power, you’ll need to charge your packs with an automobile battery. If your charger has auxiliary cords to run off a 12-volt power source, make sure you bring ‘em! Every class at the Hobby Works races run two five minute qualifying heats and a third race called the Main. So, you’ll need to bring at least three or four battery packs unless you intend to run one or more of them several times during your day at the races.

The idea behind organized racing is that you’re not just there to win. In fact, experienced racers will often say that they’d rather run in a tight race for a third or fourth place finish than drive away from the field and win by half a lap or more. I know that sounds weird- hey, why race if you’re not going to win?- but it’s true. The more experienced you become, the more you realize that the fun is in proving that you can drive very closely, sometimes within inches, for lap after lap and not touch the other car. Sure, it’s nice to actually cross the line ahead of the other guy, but it’s the racing that makes it exciting, not just the winning! And the way you get to that close racing is through the qualifying process.

The Hobby Works format utilizes two qualifying races, called heats, that give the folks who are at the track that day an opportunity to get their cars sorted out. During practice, you’ll have to learn the track layout, how to approach and exit each corner, get your gearing correct, and maybe even change the shock oil or springs to make the car handle correctly. All of that work culminates in the qualifiers, when you race against others in the same class to get your personal best time for that particular track layout. The computer counts each lap based on the amount of time it takes for you to cross the finish line over a five-minute race. It does this through the use of a transponder, a little device about an inch square that’s held to your car by a body clip. That way, the lap counting is fair and nobody has to worry about someone forgetting to count their car if a whole gaggle of sedans cross the line at the same time. Neat!

So, here’s tip number two: get to the track site early enough to help out with setup. Introduce yourself to the race director, tell him you’re pretty new to this stuff, and ask what you can help out with. You can ask the director to point out an experienced racer who can answer your questions (there are always a bunch of these guys at Hobby Works races), and your assistance with the track will make things run more smoothly. A knowledgeable new friend can make all the difference when it comes to succeeding at your first racing attempt.

Tip number three: always practice for at least one full battery pack before the first qualifying heat. The race director changes the track layout every week, so you’ll need to learn where to turn left and right. Practice also gives you an opportunity to adjust things, take care of any problems that escaped your pre-race inspection, and makes you more confident in your equipment. You’ll have enough to occupy your mind without worrying about whether your car’s going to finish the race. To make it possible for everyone to have a chance for some practice time, Hobby Works uses frequency clips to ensure that only one car on each frequency is on the track at a time. You’ll find the frequency clips on an orange board at the race director’s table under the white canopy next to the track. Make sure that you have the clip before turning on your radio, and return it when you’re finished. Chances are, someone else is waiting to use it so they can get their car dialed in, and it’s not polite to hog the clips. It’s even less considerate to take the clip back to your pit space to make adjustments, or put in a fresh battery to get more track time.

Practice time is important for another reason, too. The more you run your car, the more you discover little problems that can keep you from finishing your race, and the better chance you have of correcting those problems and making it over the finish line. Over the years, I’ve developed a reputation for completing just about every race I start. Sure, I’m a nut about maintenance, but I also practice, and practice, and practice. I figure that any car that’s able to withstand a lot of practice (especially with me driving!) is sure to make it all the way to the end of a puny little five-minute race! Need more proof? Watch a few of the races preceding yours and you’ll find that half of the cars drop out by the end. If you survive, you’ll do better than the guys who have to pull their cars!

Remember the entry form you filled out before practice began? All of that information about your class, type of car, name, and radio frequency is put into the computer. The race software prints out a listing of heats that are posted on the bulletin board found close to the race director’s canopy. On the heat sheet you’ll find out who’s racing in which classes, which order the races are run in, and which frequency needs to be in your radio. So, when you hear the announcement that the heats are posted, head on over to the bulletin board to check out this listing so you know that your information was entered correctly. Write down which race you are participating in, when it occurs, and whether you will need to switch to an alternate frequency before the heat starts. Nobody likes waiting around for someone to change crystals when they should have known of any frequency conflict when the heats were posted!

What else will be different from bashing around with your friends in the street? Well, you may be shocked to discover that there will be a lot of cars on the track with you during your heats. Practically speaking, Hobby Works limits the heats and Mains to no more than ten cars in each race, but that’s enough to make things very crowded! That many cars trying to occupy the same piece of real estate at the same time can make for a lot of excitement, and it’s one reason why racing is so darn difficult. Racing takes concentration, plain and simple, and anyone who tells you otherwise is being less than honest with you. Think about it: it’s sunny, there are lots of spectators, and people yelling for their favorite drivers, and music from two or three boom boxes, and, um, let’s not forget about all of those cars out there on the track!

These distractions can make your first racing experience miserable if you’re not ready for them. So, here’s tip number four: be prepared. Charge your battery packs before you leave home. Put new alkalines in your radio for this special day (radio interference caused by low transmitter batteries is the most common reason people fail to finish a race). Mark your packs somehow so you’ll know which ones have been used in practice. Don’t dump halfway through a race because you put a pack into your car for a qualifier that’s already been run and discharged (yep, this is the second most frequent reason).

Know what numeric frequency (called a channel) on which your radio operates. There are six channels on the 27-megahertz band, more than thirty on 75 MHz, and every racer must be on a different channel so that their radio signals don’t interfere with each other. Buy an extra set of crystals on a different channel for your radio and receiver to make sure that you’ll be able to run in your class without radio problems. When the race director asks that all radios in the pits- that is, not being used in the race on the track right now- be turned off, check yours to guarantee that you don’t cause problems for someone else. Some guys go down the street to test their cars, but that’s a really bad idea because there’s a good chance that someone else is expecting that use that channel for their race. Ask the race director to let you know when it’s safe to turn on your radio if you have to check something.

As mentioned previously, the Hobby Works series uses computer-controlled transponder lap counting and race management software. Transponders are small, battery-operated transmitter devices mounted in each car that ‘talk’ to the computer as you pass over the finish line. Since the transponder requires a mounting hole in the body of your car, check with the race director to find out how large the hole should be and where best to place it on your car.

Tip number five: listen up and pay attention to what’s going on, so you know how long you’ve got until your race starts. Get ready and don’t goof off. I suggest that you peak your battery one last time ten minutes or so before you’re due at the line. Head for the race director’s table halfway through the race that precedes yours to get your transponder and mount it in your car. Make sure you have your radio and your body clips with you! If you haven’t put a number on your car yet, do so now. When the race before yours has finished and the drivers have retrieved their cars, turn on your radio and your car, put it down over by the finish line, and walk over to the raised driver stands. Don’t mess around, because there’s a limited amount of time allowed between races. Run your car over the finish line to ‘check in’ with the computer and ensure that your transponder is counting correctly. For the first qualifier, line up on the track in order by the transponder number that’s assigned to your car or truck. There will be a number on the track at the place your car is supposed to start. For the second heat, Hobby Works usually reverses the order. So, if you start in the back for the first qualifier, you’ll be in the front for the second one.

The computer signals the beginning of the race with a beep tone, so the announcer will tell the racers that the heat will begin at the sound of the tone. When you hear the tone, start driving around the track and try to avoid hitting the other cars. You will not succeed at this at first, but it gets easier as time goes by. If you manage to stay on the track, and don’t get into too many accidents, you’ll probably make it to the end of your race. Stay as calm as possible, don’t shout at people- especially the corner marshals- and remember that people spend years learning how to do this right. Congratulations, you’ve survived your first real r/c car race. Is this cool or what?

After finishing each qualifier, pick up your car and turn it off. Then turn off your radio, take out the transponder and put it back in the rack, put the car and radio on the race director’s table, and head out to the track to corner marshal. Every time you race, you have to spend the next heat rescuing the cars that get hung up, stuck, turned over, and otherwise stranded. Don’t be a slacker or make the race director tell you to get out on the track to marshal. Want to know how to marshal correctly? Watch how others do it and learn from their good and bad habits. Wanna hear tip number six? Be a really great turn marshal. Move quickly, pay attention, and don’t step out in front of traffic or put a car down in front of another vehicle. Don’t become distracted by what’s happened somewhere else and pay attention to your part of the track. Run to an accident that requires your assistance. The race director may also tell you about cars that are stuck in corners that you can’t see from where you are on the track. The drivers on the stand will probably let you know when they’re hung up, but don’t let their shouts make you crazy. Hey, if they hadn’t wrecked, they wouldn’t need you to help ‘em out! Even the most talented driver will need your assistance from time to time. And don’t try to fix a car if it means you can’t pay attention to what’s going on out on the track. When the heat’s over, pick up your car and radio at the race director’s table and head back to the pits. Change the battery for a fresh one and check your car for any damage that may have occurred during the first heat. After everyone’s qualifying heats have been run in order, the whole thing starts over again.

It takes a couple of hours for all of the qualifiers to run and a little while to sort through the results and set up the Mains. The race director usually opens up the track for a short practice session at this point. Ready for tip number seven? Don’t practice now unless you absolutely, positively have to. More breakage occurs during the free-for-all that occurs during final practice than at any other time during an event, and unless I’m desperate, I avoid it altogether. Instead, take a few minutes to make sure your battery is charged and the car is ready to go. When the race director announces that the mains have been posted, head for the bulletin board to find out when your last race is scheduled. Each racer in each class is ranked in order by their best qualifying time, so the drivers are grouped together into main events according to their performance. The fastest cars will be put into the A Main, the next fastest guys into the B Main, and so forth, until all the racers have been ordered within their class. These main events are run just like the qualifiers: you line up in order, start at the beep, and marshal afterwards. The lower mains (D, C, B) usually run first, but Hobby Works runs all of the A Mains at the end of the day.

If you can, stick around to help take down the track or clean up after the last Main has been run. This helps the Hobby Works staff get everything put away and encourages them to send an experienced racer or helpful tip your way when you need a little help. Clean up your pit area and put your trash in one of the bags available by the race director’s table. Pack up your stuff, making extra sure you have your car and your radio, and head on home. Now comes the really fun part- bench racing! You and your friends are sure to have several hours of discussion afterwards, reliving every crash and corner of your first day at the track as a full-fledged racer!